I built the new diffs (stock parts) using the Tamiya Diff Plate Grease. I'm guessing this adjusts the timing on when the brushes switch the flow of current? And if so, I'm guessing that turning it one way gives me better top end torque and turning it the other way gives me better low end torque? I noticed that the new motor (and I think the old one as well) allows me to rotate the cap +/- ~15 degrees. The real test will be when I run the car. By ear it sounds like the 27 turn spins faster!!! Maybe my ear is not a great measuring instrument. Now reading up on it (yes, after I did the work lol) it sounds like 0.001 uF might be too small : \ Interestingly, I connected both my new 23 turn motor and my old paradox 27 turn motor directly to my battery just to see which one spins faster. Maybe someone with suspension tuning experience can chime in here.įor the motor I kept the wires short to reduce weight and I soldered on 2x 0.001 uF capacitors (1 on each side of the motor spanning across the +/- poles). Not sure what would be the benefit of that and sounds like you could get pretty inconsistent behaviour that way depending on the surface. I went with the normal bound/normal rebound since having faster bound seems to me like just a trick to keep the suspension packed down. They came with 2 kinds of cores: i) normal bound/normal rebound damping and ii) faster bound/normal rebound damping. It is noticeable when sliding bearings on/off the shaft): The last solution is a bit ghetto I know but I don't know how much time I want to spend engineering this prop shaft! Pics of wear and tear below (not super visible - the shaft has expanded at the location of the drill holes. Do I try again the carbon graphite shaft and drill holes but this time seal them proper? Or do I try aluminum or brass now? Or, maybe, I'll just epoxy the end gears onto the propeller shaft (bearings on first!). I'm sure that would have helped, but I'm not convinced this would completely solve the problem of those cross pin holes wearing out. Now, as it would have been best if I went over the drilled face/edge in the carbon graphite with CA glue to seal and join the fibres, and I did not do this. Sadly, the propeller shaft is showing signs of wear now at both ends where the cross pin goes through. Next up, I took the running car apart again and inspected the drivetrain components. I don't think I'm inspired enough to attempt to construct my own arms or hubs : P So that's a 28 g (86 - 58) penalty I am paying now for using the aluminum suspension components : ( Hopefully the handling is worth it. New arms: 43 g (per half of car so 86 g total) Old arms: 29 g (per half of car so 58 g total) I did not include any upper control arms/tie rods in this comparison as weight differences there are hopefully marginal (the new arms will use longer upper arms/rods so there is some extra weight there but hopefully its negligible). I used titanium screws in the plastic control arms to give a best case comparison. The stock plastic control arms use 2 screws each to join 2 plastic halves. Unfortunately, the aluminum is noticeably heavier (about 1.5x the weight of the stock components). Next, I wanted to compare the weight of the stock control arms and hubs to the new aluminum hardware. I am certainly convinced the wheel positions have not changed! Wheelbase rear shaft centre to front shaft centre: 257 mm Rear flat edge of chassis to wheel shaft centre: 20.5 mm Rear chassis centre to outer edge of wheel shaft bearing: 76 mmįront chassis centre to outer edge of wheel shaft bearing: 76 mm I measured the old arms on the old chassis and the new arms on the new chassis in the following places and got the same numbers for both (I estimate +/- 0.5 mm margin of error in my measurements): I have now verified to myself, based on my own measurements, that these parts fit perfectly and that track, wheelbase, and wheel positioning forwards/backwards has not changed even 1 mm. Here's a picture of the hardware test mounted to the new chassis plastic (no upper arms/tie rods attached yet).ĭespite advice given, I was still not 100% sure when ordering this kit that the components would fit, or that the track and wheelbase would remain unchanged (call me paranoid if you will). Kudos to their information in this thread from which I knew to get the kit. R/C Electric Cars, TL-01, Tamiya (TL-01, M03) Toe-in Rear Upright #53345, Tamiya 4WD Touring & Rally Car Lightweight King Pins #53141, Tamiya TL-01 G Parts (Gear) #50738,Ĭopyright © 2007-2022 Vellrip.First things first: I bought a set of long aluminum control arms and aluminum hubs in a kit that was designed for the GF01 (see here). Tamiya 4WD Touring & Rally Car Lightweight King Pins #53141
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